Chirimen

Chirimen 縮緬 is a typically thick and heavy silk crepe with a unique crinkled surface, much prized for making kimonos and other accessories.

The technique appeared in Japan at the end of the Momoyama or early Edo period, coming from China via Osaka. It soon expanded into Kyoto’s Nishijin district.

Several regional varieties, which differ by tread type and dying methods, were developed soon thereafter.

Tango Chirimen from the prefecture of Kyoto, and Hama (hitokoshi) Chirimen from Nagahama (in the Shiga prefecture), are among today’s best-known types of regional crepe fabrics.

The fabric is produced by keeping the weft threat tighter than the warp thread during the weaving process. The warp thread itself consists of two gum coated threads twisted together.

After weaving the fabric is washed, to remove the gum coating, and the different tension of the threads cause it to crinkle.
The finished fabric, however, cannot be washed with water, because it produces severe shrinkage and deforms the garment. The threads can be dyed before weaving but also after the work is finished.

Today, many similar fabrics are produced with cheaper, synthetic thread, and widely used to make formal attire, primarily garments at high risk of being stained during events like tea ceremonies.