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Chirimen

Chirimen ēø®ē·¬ is a typically thick and heavy silk crepe with a unique crinkled surface, much prized for making kimonos and other accessories.

The technique originated in China, and first appeared in Osaka Japan near the end of the Momoyama and the beginning of the Edo era, and quickly spread to the Nishijin district of Kyoto.

Several regional varieties, which differ by tread type and dying methods, were developed soon thereafter.

Tango Chirimen from the prefecture of Kyoto, and Hama (hitokoshi) Chirimen from Nagahama (in the Shiga prefecture), are among todayā€™s best-known types of regional crepe fabrics.

The fabric is produced by keeping the weft threat tighter than the warp thread during the weaving process. The warp thread itself consists of two gum coated threads twisted together.

After weaving the fabric is washed, to remove the gum coating, and the different tension of the threads cause it to crinkle.
The finished fabric however cannot be cleaned with water, as this causes it to shrink dramatically and lose its shape. The yarn may be dyed before or after being woven.

Today, many similar fabrics are produced with cheaper, synthetic thread, and widely used to make formal attire, primarily garments at high risk of being stained during events like tea ceremonies.

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