Tsumugi fabric 紬 is made with floss silk yarn, spun from the short fibers of empty or deformed silkworm cocoons, otherwise unusable for the production of silk yarn.
Spinning yarn from these short fibers is a long, labor intensive process, and the reason why tsumugi is one of the most expensive fabrics on the market.
Nonetheless deemed to be an informal fabric, Tsumugi is typically used to make Komon kimonos, although sometimes it may be found in more formal garments, such as Iromuji and Houmongi kimonos.
Tsumugi is readily recognizable by the uneven thickness of the thread, and the presence of knobs. Initially the fabric feels stiff, due to the starch applied in the spinning process, but it progressively gets softer with use over time.
There are many regional varieties of tsumugi, due to its being among the fabrics women traditionally produced at home, and used to make informal, daily wear attire for their household.
The cocoons are gathered and degummed in a solution of hot water, baking soda and sulfuric acid. Once rinsed, and dried in direct sunlight, they are dipped in a water bath with crushed sesame seeds.
Once rinsed, and dried in direct sunlight, they are dipped in a water bath with crushed sesame seeds.
The sesame seeds oil makes it easier to draw individual strands for spinning.
The weaver then spins the silk by hand, joining the ends of each strand with saliva, which gives the fabric its typical sheen and stiffness.
Once spun, tsumugi silk yarn is dyed with the Kasuri technique, and then woven.
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